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Acosta, DOL withdraw joint employer guidance

NRA News - June 8, 2017 - 9:58am

Kudos to the Department of Labor for its rollback of a 2016  "administrator's interpretation" of joint employment under the Fair Labor Standards Act.

Categories: Food, News

Eat: How Did I Not Know About Pork Gyros?

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 8, 2017 - 5:00am
Discovering a classic, and common, Greek favorite in an unexpected place.
Categories: Food

Frozen tuna linked to Hepatitis A outbreak

NRA News - June 7, 2017 - 4:43pm

The FDA is advising restaurateurs and retailers in several states to take precautions regarding the purchase of frozen tuna linked to a Hepatitis A outbreak.

Categories: Food, News

What to Cook: Freestyle Fried Rice

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 7, 2017 - 11:10am
Improvisation is a kitchen skill as worthy as dicing vegetables: Go without a recipe and perfect the art of the stir-fry.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: Satay Bar Opens at Gansevoort Market

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 11:54pm
Skinny’s Satay Bar sells chicken skewers made popular at Philippe and Mr. Chow.
Categories: Food

Hungry City: For This Soup, Some Assembly Is Required (and Provided)

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 11:02pm
Western Yunnan Crossing Bridge Noodle, in Sunset Park, excels at a deconstructed potage that servers combine at the table.
Categories: Food

An Ingredient Yotam Ottolenghi Can’t Do Without

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 4:00pm
A chef makes a case for including tahini on the list of absolute essentials.
Categories: Food

Off the Menu: Cote, an Upscale Korean Barbecue Steak House, Opens in the Flatiron District

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 3:14pm
Public Kitchen opens on the Lower East Side, a Brooklyn outpost of Egg Shop opens in Williamsburg, and other restaurant news.
Categories: Food

A Chef’s Quest in India: Win Respect for Its Cooking

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 2:12pm
The cookbook author and restaurateur Asha Gomez returns to her homeland, cameras in tow, hoping to elevate an oft-neglected cuisine.
Categories: Food

Restaurant Review: Some Food, a Plate, a Room. That’s Enough at King, in SoHo.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 1:00pm
Despite the royal name, this small restaurant revels in the simple charms of its confident cooking.
Categories: Food

Cheddar Takes a Detour

Planet Cheese - June 6, 2017 - 11:00am

When the maker of an American Cheese Society “Best of Show” releases a new cheese, it gets your attention. Or mine, at least. Of course this pumpkin-colored creation would turn heads in any case, but the cheesemaker’s award-winning track record compelled me to go out of my way to score some. Is it a Cheddar? Or a riff on French Mimolette? And what’s up with that color?

Chris Roelli of Wisconsin’s Roelli Cheese Haus took top honors at the ACS judging last summer for Little Mountain, an alpine-style wheel. And he preceded that triumph with a gold medal at the 2016 World Championship Cheese for Haus Select (pictured above). Roelli clearly has the touch.

Haus Select is a traditional bandage-wrapped Cheddar that veers off the traditional path. For one thing, that hue! Wisconsonites love their orange Cheddars—white Cheddar is suspect—but Roelli has really gone deep with this one. The interior looks like dark butterscotch candy.

Cheese doesn’t develop this color on its own, although some super-aged Goudas get close. Annatto, a plant-based dye from the same seed that tints achiote paste brick-red, does the job. (It’s commonly used in butter, too.) Most people say annatto contributes no flavor, but I sometimes find an earthy taste in cheeses tinted with it and in achiote paste as well.

Chris Roelli

For Haus Select, Roelli (pronounced like Raleigh) uses traditional Cheddar cultures but not exclusively. Like several other domestic Cheddar producers, he is aiming for the more mellow character that many American consumers prefer. I asked him if, like others, he was adding Swiss-type cultures to achieve a sweeter, nuttier taste. “I wouldn’t argue with that,” he said.

Made from pasteurized cow’s milk in a 20-pound format, Haus Select ages in cheesecloth for a minimum of four months, although most of the wheels leaving Wisconsin are eight months old or more. But unlike classic clothbound Cheddar, Haus Select gets a polymer coating when the wheel is about two weeks old. The coating is permeable so the cheese can breathe, but it keeps the dreaded cheese mites at bay.

These tiny cheese-loving critters can bore through a rind so cheesemakers must frequently brush them off, which takes constant attention. “For my small group of guys, it’s really hard to manage that and to keep the other cheeses safe,” says Roelli. The coating reduces the air exchange that contributes to the development of the great classic Cheddars but saves Roelli and his crew a lot of aggravation.

Haus Select is firm and brittle, breaking cleanly. It has subtle nutty and earthy aromas, a pleasant Cheddary tartness and a mellow finish. It’s not the most complex Cheddar you will ever taste—it lacks the layered flavors I find in the best ones—but it’s an enjoyable snacking cheese and a good choice for people who find traditional Cheddars too biting. Roelli tells me the cheese develops protein crystals and more mature aromas at eight to twelve months, so let’s hope he can afford to hold on to some for extended aging.

In Northern California, look for Roelli Haus Select at Farmstead Cheeses and Wines in Alameda and Montclair; Market Hall Foods in Berkeley; Mission Cheese and Cheese Plus in San Francisco; and Atelier by JCB in Yountville. You can also purchase the cheese online at www.roellicheese.com. An American pale ale or cider would be my beverage of choice, but the cheese is mild enough to pair with almost any red wine.

Categories: Food

U.S. Islands: On a Georgia Island, a Lot of Good Food and Plenty of Nothing

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 6, 2017 - 5:00am
Cumberland Island offers memorable meals, fine fishing, wild horses, empty beaches and a rich history.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: The Chef George Mendes Offers His Egg Tarts to Go

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 4:43pm
Pasteis de nata, flaky custard tarts, travel well in geometric boxes from the Portuguese restaurant Lupulo.
Categories: Food

A Good Appetite: A Chicken-Roasting Method All Good Cooks Know

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 4:16pm
If you haven’t tried spatchcocking, which gives you a crisp bird with juicy meat in less than an hour, then it’s time to pick up the shears.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: Cocktail Stirrer Celebrates Signature Move of Bartender

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 4:10pm
This cocktail stirrer is cast from the index finger of Gary Regan, a bartender known for being creative when it comes to mixing Negronis.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: Learn to Make Pies With Former Gourmet Editors

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 3:51pm
Ian Knauer and Shelley Wiseman teach hands-on pie-making classes at the Farm Cooking School in New Jersey.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: Tahini Is at the Heart of These Vibrant Spreads

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 2:15pm
Sesame Kingdom sells sesame-seed spreads flavored with strawberries, figs and other fruits and vegetables.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: An Amaro From Galliano Makes Its American Debut

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 1:40pm
Galliano L’Aperitivo is a ruby-red bittersweet amaro that would work well in a Negroni.
Categories: Food

How Cold Brew Changed the Coffee Business

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 1:25pm
The iced coffee drink has lifted the industry, creating enormous summertime demand for coffee and a whole new audience.
Categories: Food

What to Cook: Monday Is the New Saturday

NYTimes Dining and Wine - June 5, 2017 - 11:10am
Cook like every day is the weekend, despite the reality.
Categories: Food