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The Weekly Dozen - Hits & Misses

Sometimes a wine taster feels a bit like he’s woken up on the wrong side of the bar.

Sometimes every wine tastes great, and, at other times, some seem to just miss the mark.

Although the wines in this dozen were sampled at different times, some of them are great, but a few of them are passable, yet missing a little something, in most cases, structure.

Think of wine structure this way – as being the difference between paddling around in a tepid pool and swimming in a moving stream. It may all be the same water, but it feels a lot different.

Or, as the case might be, different strokes for different wines.

2018 Alois Lageder “Terra Alpina” Dolomiti Pinot Bianco ($15). There is some complexity of flavors here, but the strands aren’t very well woven together.

2018 Alois Lageder “Terra Alpina” Dolomiti Pinot Grigio ($16). The pear-mint flavors are there, but the wine is a little bland in the finish. If this is your first exposure to Lageder, hold out for the good – though higher-priced – stuff.

2017 Pagos del Galir Valdeorras Godello ($17). Pleasant white, with green table-grape flavors and a medium body.

2017 Scott Family Arroyo Seco Chardonnay ($20). Enjoyable apple and creamy flavors, yet not buttery.

2018 Rutherford Ranch Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($23). Interesting – crisp green flavors complemented by peach juiciness in the finish.

2018 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($34). Marlborough-like with its boxwood and kiwi aromas and flavors and its good acidity.

2018 Tank Garage “Love & Pride” California White Wine ($36). Not quite up to the Garage’s standards, as it seems to have no center structurally in spite of a tart, but not crisp, finish and interesting white flowers and citrus flavors.

2017 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay ($45). Lacks structure, with muddled green fruit and herbal savory notes.

2017 Cakebread Cellars “Two Creeks Vineyard” Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($51). Very lean with pleasant, sharp, black raspberry flavors, yet a bit like a Bordeaux red in profile.

2016 Inman Family “Pratt Hill” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir” ($68). Quite enjoyable – mouth-filling without being heavy, with rooty and cola flavors and some spices in the end.

2016 Inman Family “OGV Estate” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($73). Lighter than most Inmans – more delicate, even – but with great concentration of dark fruit and savory flavors in the finish and aftertaste.

2016 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($85). A beautifully tasting wine – great fruit, savory notes, barrel flavors – but surprisingly lightish in body and impact.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com.

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