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Food

When the Whole-Animal Ethos Includes the Dinner Plates

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 5, 2019 - 5:00am
The ceramist Gregg Moore is helping to ensure that absolutely nothing goes to waste at the New York restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
Categories: Food

The T List: A New Kyoto Hotel, Comfortable Party Shoes and More

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 5, 2019 - 4:00am
What to visit, wear and covet this week, from the editors of T Magazine.
Categories: Food

Serving Up West Virginia History, Not All of It Sweet

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 4, 2019 - 6:15pm
While big-name chefs take up Appalachian cooking, a farm couple are using old seeds and recipes to tell a more complex story and lift up their region.
Categories: Food

Fire Blight Spreads Northward, Threatening Apple Orchards

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 4, 2019 - 3:25pm
Growers in northern states are combating virulent outbreaks of a disease as seasons grow warmer, orchards have been reconfigured for higher yields and new varieties may be more vulnerable.
Categories: Food

The Year’s Best Pastry Cookbooks

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 4, 2019 - 10:30am
Melissa Clark has rounded up 2019’s finest, and naturally brought back four fine recipes for you to make this week.
Categories: Food

Paris Might Be the Best City for Italian Food (Outside Italy)

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 4, 2019 - 5:00am
From experimental aperitivo bars to pizza labs to Michelin-starred bistros, cool Italian establishments are filling the French capital, and Parisians are flocking to them.
Categories: Food

The French Fries Are Doing Just Fine

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 4, 2019 - 5:00am
After a weak harvest for many potato farmers in the United States and Canada, there were concerns about shortages of the fast food staple. But supplies aren’t likely to run out anytime soon.
Categories: Food

How to Bake the Perfect Madeleine

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 10:10pm
Good is too easy. These toasty Earl Grey-flavored teacakes are an astounding delight.
Categories: Food

After 20 Years Under One Chef, Peasant Is Changing Hands

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 7:53pm
As Frank DeCarlo prepares to leave his NoLIta fixture, Marc Forgione is taking over and vowing to preserve its rustic charm.
Categories: Food

Gary Regan, Maestro of Mixology and Cocktail Culture, Dies at 68

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 5:45pm
A British-born son of publicans, he became a bartender in New York, a saloonkeeper, an author of 18 books and a columnist and commentator.
Categories: Food

André Daguin Dies at 84; Chef Made Gascony (and a Dish) Famous

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 4:43pm
His menu, most notably the grilled duck breast, made a region of southwest France a required stop for traveling food lovers.
Categories: Food

These Are the Best Baking Cookbooks of 2019

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 4:23pm
A mix of sophisticated flavors and exacting techniques sets these six dessert-focused books apart.
Categories: Food

A Tour of the Japanese Table at Chikarashi Isso in the Financial District

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 1:39pm
Natural wines from the owners of Colonie in Brooklyn, omakase and kaiseki in Astoria, Queens, and more restaurant news.
Categories: Food

In the New World of Whiskeys, Australia Strives to Stand Out

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 12:19pm
While distillers around the globe imitate Scotch, Australians are innovating to create something distinctive.
Categories: Food

F.D.A. Nominee Clears Senate Panel

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 12:17pm
As a teen vaping and health crisis dominates public concerns, the Food and Drug Administration has been without a permanent commissioner since April.
Categories: Food

Nami Nori Gets Hand Rolls Right, and Other Details Too

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 11:57am
A temaki specialist in Greenwich Village pays attention to the little things that impart a sense of luxury even in an inexpensive restaurant.
Categories: Food

Ultimate Holiday Cheeses

Planet Cheese - December 3, 2019 - 11:00am

Want to guess which of these beauties was the hands-down favorite in my recent class on holiday cheeses? The top vote-getter didn’t surprise me, although (lovely as it was) I didn’t vote for it. I selected most of these cheeses because they’re only or primarily available now, during the run-up to the holidays; others made the cut because they are party-worthy for other reasons. People expect Cheddar and Stilton on a holiday buffet. Shake things up with one or more of these showstoppers.

Clockwise from twelve o’clock:

Crémeux des Cîteaux aux Truffes (cow’s milk/France): Made in Burgundy, this triple-cream knockout is halved horizontally and slathered with black truffles, then reassembled and aged by affineur Rodolph Le Meunier. Over time it knits together again under a thick white bloom. Pass the Champagne.

Camembert Fermier (cow’s milk/France): From the Ferme de la Tremblaye, an eco-conscious enterprise near Paris, this farmstead gem could pass for a raw-milk Camembert. It takes skill to produce such enticing aromas—porcini, cooked cauliflower, a hint of cabbage—using pasteurized milk.

Landmark Creamery Anabasque (sheep’s milk/Wisconsin): I wanted this one for my plate because my host The Cheese School of San Francisco had it and I don’t see it often. One of very few aged sheep cheeses in this country, Anabasque is not as silky as the sheep cheeses from the French Pyrenees, such as Ossau-Iraty, but the family resemblance emerges in the aromas of roasted nuts and custard and the sweet, cooked-milk finish. Murray’s has some if you’re curious.

Seasonal dazzler: Rush Creek Reserve

Uplands Cheese Company Rush Creek Reserve (raw cow’s milk/Wisconsin): This one is seasonal, made only in the fall when the farm’s cows have transitioned from fresh grass to hay and the milk is extra-rich. Modeled after the Swiss Vacherin Mont d’Or, Rush Creek Reserve relies on a spruce band to keep it corralled. When fully ripe, it’s scoopable; slice off the top and dig in. You’ll find a robust woodsy aroma of leaf litter and mushrooms.

Schnebelhorn (raw cow’s milk/Switzerland): A modern creation from a third-generation cheesemaker, Schnebelhorn is a cream-enriched wheel weighing about 15 pounds and matured for eight months. The extended aging and frequent brine washing produce captivating aromas of roast beef, garlic, brown butter and roasted onion. And such depth of flavor! Don’t rush through this one: its character unfolds in layers.

Black Betty (goat’s milk/The Netherlands): Selected by affineur Betty Koster of Fromagerie L’Amuse and matured under her watch, this goat Gouda is essentially an extra-aged Brabander. At 12 to 15 months, Black Betty is a dense yet creamy salted caramel of a cheese. An oloroso sherry is magic with it.

Stichelton (raw cow’s milk/England): When Stilton producers decided to prohibit the use of raw milk about 30 years ago, Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy, the British cheese retailer and exporter, swung into action. He put together a partnership with a dairy farm and cheesemaker to continue producing the recipe with raw milk and traditional Stilton cultures. It can’t be called Stilton, but Stichelton is a near-twin, with aromas of toast and hazelnuts, a mellow flavor and a luscious, buttery texture.

And now, the reveal. The class favorite, predictably, was the truffled Crémeux. I cast my vote for Black Betty. Goat Gouda isn’t typically where I land, but this was a superb wheel.

Wine Country Table

FREE Shipping on Signed Copies

My latest cookbook, Wine Country Table, is a richly photographed road trip through California, highlighting farms and wineries that are leaders in sustainability. The recipes showcase fruits and vegetables that the Golden State grows, from almonds, artichokes and avocados to Little Gem lettuces and pistachios. It would make a beautiful holiday gift for anyone who loves the state or hopes to visit, and I offer free third-class shipping.

“Janet Fletcher has triumphed with a book that will make you want to run into the kitchen and cook.”
Joanne Weir


Categories: Food

Finger Sandwiches Save the Day

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 9:14am
A famous movie heroine once called upon “a flock of sandwiches” to fuel her holiday soiree. You should, too.
Categories: Food

Eating My Way Through Vietnam’s Most Livable City

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 5:00am
Facing rain, the 52 Places Traveler skips Danang’s famous beaches in favor of street food and the buzz of a rapidly growing city.
Categories: Food

6 Cookbooks That Double as Guidebooks

NYTimes Dining and Wine - December 3, 2019 - 5:00am
For travelers who first consider dinner reservations and pastry stops when planning a trip, select cookbooks celebrating the cuisine of a city or country can also serve as guidebooks.
Categories: Food